La Chartreuse is a mountain range in the French Alps, near Autrans. This is the home place of Perrine Gamot and family. High in the mountain is the monastery of silent, non-meat eating monks. They produce the Chartreuse, a herbal distillation drink which is a fine digestive with medicinal qualities. It gave the name of the color chartreuse-neon green. Then there is Chartreuse, a medieval time French dish. It is build like a cake with different layers. I am not sure how all these are related, but they must be. In the past the dish was made with partridges, quails, sausages, bacon. I accidentally discovered a new world vegetarian version. I took the liberty to change it to utilize the vegetables and herbs from my garden. It is fun to make, time consuming, but worthy for the
“Hats off!” reaction.
1 head Savoy cabbage, about 2 pounds
2 turnips, sliced on a mandolin,(use carrots or beats for more dramatic color layers)
1 c combined julienned celery ribs with the leaves
salt and pepper to taste
4 tbs butter, separated
2 tbs olive oil, separated
¼ c finely diced white onion or shallot
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3-4 tbs mixed chopped sage, rosemary, thyme, dill
4 c finely diced mushrooms – any combination
¼ c good dry white wine
1 tbs Chartreuse or Sherry, or Perno, something French ¼ cup chopped parsley leaves
2 tablespoons creme fra’i’che
2 lb spinach, or a combination with baby kale
1 large grate of nutmeg
1 /2 c grated Parmesan
Cut the cabbage core/stem end. Separate IO leaves choosing the biggest, most beautiful. Boil a pot of water, and salt. Cook separated leaves in two batches for 3-4 minutes each, removing when they are pliable to a baking tray lined with paper towel. Let them drain until very dry. In a pot steam the turnip slices until pliable.
Combine 2 tablespoons butter and I tbs of olive oil in a large pan. Once butter is melted, add chopped onion, garlic, celery and combined sage, rosemary and thyme, dill and mix well. Cook over medium heat, stirring regularly. Add all diced mushrooms, and stir occasionally, cooking 15-25 minutes until the mushrooms’ liquid has all evaporated. Season with salt and papper, add white wine and cook for another minute. Turn off heat. Add parsley leaves and creme fraiche, and mix through. Remove to a bowl, and refrigerate.
Rinse spinach/kale in a large colander. Put a large pan over medium -high heat. Cook in batches until they are completely wilted. Remove to a colander to cool. Squeeze spinach well between your hands until dry, chop finely. In a pan, heat 2 tablespoons butter in I tablespoon olive oil, add chopped spinach and season with salt and nutmeg, cook a few moments. Add a dash of French liquor, cook for a minute. Turn off heat. Add Parmesan and mix.
Preheat oven to 350 F. Lightly butter a 6 or 7-inch springform pan. Make sure the cabbage leaves are very dry. Put the prettiest cabbage leaf in the bottom of the pan. Use 5 more leaves, overlapping to line the the bottom and the sides. There should be some leaves remaining overhanging at the top. Spread half the mushroom mixture evenly into the bottom of the pan, over the cabbage. Cover with an even layer of half the spinach. Press on the layers as you go. Next arrange the turnip, overlapping. Repeat with the remaining spinach, and then the remaining mushrooms. Cover the mushrooms with few more cabbage leaves, fold overhanging leaves to cover. Put into the middle of the oven. Bake 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and let sit to cool for 5-I0 minutes. Put a large plate over the cake pan. Invert the pan, and release the springform sides. Carefully remove the sides and top. Let the dish cool a few minutes more, then cut with a very sharp knife. Serve immediately, alone, or with a dollop of creme fraiche.